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The Watercooler
Dry....and a washer question.
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<blockquote data-quote="Star*" data-source="post: 338918" data-attributes="member: 4964"><p>YUP...I have an idea..but it's going to take some man power and a flashlight...and IF it's what I think it is? Well.....you are going to need either a new part or a good welder. </p><p></p><p>If the washing machine isn't spinning out all the way what is happening? </p><p></p><p>Okay when a washer spins - there are 2 plates on the bottom of your washing machine (on most) as the washing machine goes into that final spin? The belt goes back and the 2nd plate slides over the first (in a manner of speaking) which pulls tight creating the tension to GET the belt tight. Think of a fan folded up. Now think of that fan opening - if the fan can't open? The belt isn't pulling tight and the washer won't spin out all the way. </p><p></p><p>What usually causes this is rust. The bolts get rusted from normal wear (around 5 years) or the plates weld themselves shut from rust. OR The transmission welds itself to a point and won't go any further preventing complete spin out. So....you can tip the washer back, take the cover off, find the 2 plates I'm talking about (if ur mechanically inclined, and then wire brush off those plates and treat all the bolts that are rusted with WD-40 and paint the plates with a rust inhibitive paint like rustoleum, let dry - then replace. Check the belt on the transmission, if it's cracked, or worn - replace it. You can tell too if what I'm saying is the problem because you should be able once the machine is tipped back to push the tranny back with your hand (you will see the plates I'm talking about) They literally slide one over top the other) </p><p></p><p>It's a temporary fix - if you really are mechanically inclined. </p><p></p><p>The OTHER problem you could be having is with a snubber ring. Not going to try to explain that....but that should only be replaced by a pro. </p><p></p><p>My thought at that point would be? Check Lowes scratch and dent aisle (usually back by the bathrooms) and this is the best time of year for that because they are trying to get old models out. The other thing you can try is Habitat for Humanity, or some type of trader paper. </p><p></p><p>FWIW - the next time I buy a machine? I will NEVER EVER EVER EVER - to the 100000000th power get GE credit insurance on my appliances. I had a 5 year battle, nearly went to court, and now after 2000.00 in appliances have a mismatched pair - Maytag dryer and GE washer - Never again.....they stink and LOWES? They will never ever get another nickle of my business for an appliance. EVER. </p><p></p><p>I will buy from a reputable appliance person who carries their own brand of in house warranties and believe me will I ask questions. TONS of what if's. </p><p></p><p>Hope this helps. STAY AWAY FROM GE CREDIT APPLIANCE COVERAGE - they are horrible.....HORRIBLE......HORRIBLE.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Star*, post: 338918, member: 4964"] YUP...I have an idea..but it's going to take some man power and a flashlight...and IF it's what I think it is? Well.....you are going to need either a new part or a good welder. If the washing machine isn't spinning out all the way what is happening? Okay when a washer spins - there are 2 plates on the bottom of your washing machine (on most) as the washing machine goes into that final spin? The belt goes back and the 2nd plate slides over the first (in a manner of speaking) which pulls tight creating the tension to GET the belt tight. Think of a fan folded up. Now think of that fan opening - if the fan can't open? The belt isn't pulling tight and the washer won't spin out all the way. What usually causes this is rust. The bolts get rusted from normal wear (around 5 years) or the plates weld themselves shut from rust. OR The transmission welds itself to a point and won't go any further preventing complete spin out. So....you can tip the washer back, take the cover off, find the 2 plates I'm talking about (if ur mechanically inclined, and then wire brush off those plates and treat all the bolts that are rusted with WD-40 and paint the plates with a rust inhibitive paint like rustoleum, let dry - then replace. Check the belt on the transmission, if it's cracked, or worn - replace it. You can tell too if what I'm saying is the problem because you should be able once the machine is tipped back to push the tranny back with your hand (you will see the plates I'm talking about) They literally slide one over top the other) It's a temporary fix - if you really are mechanically inclined. The OTHER problem you could be having is with a snubber ring. Not going to try to explain that....but that should only be replaced by a pro. My thought at that point would be? Check Lowes scratch and dent aisle (usually back by the bathrooms) and this is the best time of year for that because they are trying to get old models out. The other thing you can try is Habitat for Humanity, or some type of trader paper. FWIW - the next time I buy a machine? I will NEVER EVER EVER EVER - to the 100000000th power get GE credit insurance on my appliances. I had a 5 year battle, nearly went to court, and now after 2000.00 in appliances have a mismatched pair - Maytag dryer and GE washer - Never again.....they stink and LOWES? They will never ever get another nickle of my business for an appliance. EVER. I will buy from a reputable appliance person who carries their own brand of in house warranties and believe me will I ask questions. TONS of what if's. Hope this helps. STAY AWAY FROM GE CREDIT APPLIANCE COVERAGE - they are horrible.....HORRIBLE......HORRIBLE. [/QUOTE]
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