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The Watercooler
after years of being called "the cat lady" I'm certifed now
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<blockquote data-quote="helpangel" data-source="post: 598499" data-attributes="member: 7170"><p>Hi fellow critter lovers popped in for a quick update... traps closed, but empty, wire still there but chicken long gone oh and she knocked over my garbage cans and who knows what she did with my doormat? I'm gonna call rescue group and ask if they got a drop trap available for loan yet (only thing I can think of at this point)</p><p></p><p>Wow Jody got a biter, when kitty's bite skin I do a loud immediate "PSSSST" noise just once it sounds like yours has made a habit of it so might want to cover hands with baby magic baby lotion (non toxic & tastes horrible) until get this habit stopped. Oh and give it something better to chew on bottle caps & rings from milk bottles make good chew toys (especially with a drop of tuna or meat broth on it). Playing with litter mates is how they learn not to bite too hard unfortunately mom cat moved those kittens within the hour of people knowing where she hid them.</p><p></p><p>It sounds like you got it young enough general rule is anything before 16 weeks is possible (older it's possible but like trying to nail jello to a tree) but a lot easier if under 6 weeks. Having an adult house cat to show them the ropes is very helpful. Biggest thing is getting that fight or flight thing under control, do every thing you can to limit kittens boundaries. If can get a dog carrier or cage big enough to have a bedding area, litter box & food area (like cat apartment I have set up in Chomper's cage) that is best but a box or playpen with board on top will work. Point being none of this hunt down the kitten then drag it out from under the bed, it's a PITA for you and it puts the kitten thru the trama of capture all over again, also reinforces the run and hide thing. Only time kitten is out of its safe zone is when you take it out and can supervise it, we found putting collars and leashes on the kittens helps manage them also. </p><p></p><p>As time passes kitten will learn hands feed us, stroke us, clean our kitty box and that humans aren't the big scary things mom cat said wanted to eat us. Guess I'm saying think like a cat LOL ; when kitten makes eye contact do a long blink with both eyes (it's like a "luv you" in cat lingo) and talk to it a lot. There is a chance with any feral it will only warm up to it's care giver so if planning on adopting it out try to have as many different people as possible interact with it. It's great to see so many animal lovers among us and ferals are a challenge but that just makes them more interesting (kind of like lots of our kids) .</p><p></p><p>Well I need to get over to my folks house for a father's day visit will try to get back later. </p><p>Nancy</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="helpangel, post: 598499, member: 7170"] Hi fellow critter lovers popped in for a quick update... traps closed, but empty, wire still there but chicken long gone oh and she knocked over my garbage cans and who knows what she did with my doormat? I'm gonna call rescue group and ask if they got a drop trap available for loan yet (only thing I can think of at this point) Wow Jody got a biter, when kitty's bite skin I do a loud immediate "PSSSST" noise just once it sounds like yours has made a habit of it so might want to cover hands with baby magic baby lotion (non toxic & tastes horrible) until get this habit stopped. Oh and give it something better to chew on bottle caps & rings from milk bottles make good chew toys (especially with a drop of tuna or meat broth on it). Playing with litter mates is how they learn not to bite too hard unfortunately mom cat moved those kittens within the hour of people knowing where she hid them. It sounds like you got it young enough general rule is anything before 16 weeks is possible (older it's possible but like trying to nail jello to a tree) but a lot easier if under 6 weeks. Having an adult house cat to show them the ropes is very helpful. Biggest thing is getting that fight or flight thing under control, do every thing you can to limit kittens boundaries. If can get a dog carrier or cage big enough to have a bedding area, litter box & food area (like cat apartment I have set up in Chomper's cage) that is best but a box or playpen with board on top will work. Point being none of this hunt down the kitten then drag it out from under the bed, it's a PITA for you and it puts the kitten thru the trama of capture all over again, also reinforces the run and hide thing. Only time kitten is out of its safe zone is when you take it out and can supervise it, we found putting collars and leashes on the kittens helps manage them also. As time passes kitten will learn hands feed us, stroke us, clean our kitty box and that humans aren't the big scary things mom cat said wanted to eat us. Guess I'm saying think like a cat LOL ; when kitten makes eye contact do a long blink with both eyes (it's like a "luv you" in cat lingo) and talk to it a lot. There is a chance with any feral it will only warm up to it's care giver so if planning on adopting it out try to have as many different people as possible interact with it. It's great to see so many animal lovers among us and ferals are a challenge but that just makes them more interesting (kind of like lots of our kids) . Well I need to get over to my folks house for a father's day visit will try to get back later. Nancy [/QUOTE]
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after years of being called "the cat lady" I'm certifed now
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