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Cat who won't use litter box...help???
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<blockquote data-quote="Star*" data-source="post: 314528" data-attributes="member: 4964"><p>My suggestion? Get a large cat cage or rent one from a local animal rescue. Put/keep the cat IN the cage with a litter pan and fill with a good litter (one she intends on using for a long time). </p><p> </p><p>Things like declawing can alter a cat's perceptions later in life and cause them irreparable damage. Causing them to not use the litter box. See tons of that at the rescue. People turn their cats in by the dozens citing "all of a sudden" their adult cat (always declawed) started relieving itself on their comforter or couch or plants "out of spite" when it NEVER did as a kitten. Our first question - "Did you have them declawed and when? Usually the answer is about a year ago. </p><p> </p><p>Sometimes the problem is kidney stones or feline leukemia which can be easily tested by a simple urine test. Then there is a special diet and medication regime. Cats don't do things like this out of spite or anger. </p><p> </p><p>Once a routine and potty place is established it's best to NOT move the cage OR the litterbox but LEAVE them both in the same spot and just clean daily lumps and don't disturb as much as possible with a re-trained cat. Eventually - months- you can remove the cage once you see the can start going to the litter box on his own, with no other mistakes - but she's going to have to be dilligent about making sure magazines, books, blankets, doors to rooms are shut - plants in the house are OUT...and other 'desirable' places are not desirable. If the cat is def. in corners of the house? Make the corners unavailable - place tinfoil or some other undesirable sounding material there or scent away purchased at a pet store. </p><p> </p><p>As far as the litter pan - tell her for the first few months to NOT clean the scent out of that litter pan with any household cleaner or (best thing to use to get that cat smell out is vinegar) but let him have his natural smell. </p><p> </p><p>He WILL need to be allowed out of that cage for a few hours exercise a day but when he is? I would have him on a harness and long leash and confine him to a room like a laundry room that has no carpet. Or if the room with the cage is a room with no carpet - then leave the litter box in the cage - COVER the cage with a sheet - and leave the door open and let him be, but don't allow him to have full run of the house. </p><p> </p><p>Maine Coons are extremely intelligent cats - if she has a couple more months patience left in her she'll find she has a very loyal and loving cat. </p><p>He's just never had training - I mean WHO puts pp pads down for a cat? UGH. <img src="/community/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/felttip/ashamed.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":ashamed:" title="ashamed :ashamed:" data-shortname=":ashamed:" /> Poor thing - he never had a chance from the word go. </p><p> </p><p>Oh and Flutter IS right about the smell - She will HAVE to get the smell OUT of EVERYTHING....no matter HOW much training he has - if he gets out and smells his own scent? BAM....They are wild after all - and territorial. Just so unfair for him.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Star*, post: 314528, member: 4964"] My suggestion? Get a large cat cage or rent one from a local animal rescue. Put/keep the cat IN the cage with a litter pan and fill with a good litter (one she intends on using for a long time). Things like declawing can alter a cat's perceptions later in life and cause them irreparable damage. Causing them to not use the litter box. See tons of that at the rescue. People turn their cats in by the dozens citing "all of a sudden" their adult cat (always declawed) started relieving itself on their comforter or couch or plants "out of spite" when it NEVER did as a kitten. Our first question - "Did you have them declawed and when? Usually the answer is about a year ago. Sometimes the problem is kidney stones or feline leukemia which can be easily tested by a simple urine test. Then there is a special diet and medication regime. Cats don't do things like this out of spite or anger. Once a routine and potty place is established it's best to NOT move the cage OR the litterbox but LEAVE them both in the same spot and just clean daily lumps and don't disturb as much as possible with a re-trained cat. Eventually - months- you can remove the cage once you see the can start going to the litter box on his own, with no other mistakes - but she's going to have to be dilligent about making sure magazines, books, blankets, doors to rooms are shut - plants in the house are OUT...and other 'desirable' places are not desirable. If the cat is def. in corners of the house? Make the corners unavailable - place tinfoil or some other undesirable sounding material there or scent away purchased at a pet store. As far as the litter pan - tell her for the first few months to NOT clean the scent out of that litter pan with any household cleaner or (best thing to use to get that cat smell out is vinegar) but let him have his natural smell. He WILL need to be allowed out of that cage for a few hours exercise a day but when he is? I would have him on a harness and long leash and confine him to a room like a laundry room that has no carpet. Or if the room with the cage is a room with no carpet - then leave the litter box in the cage - COVER the cage with a sheet - and leave the door open and let him be, but don't allow him to have full run of the house. Maine Coons are extremely intelligent cats - if she has a couple more months patience left in her she'll find she has a very loyal and loving cat. He's just never had training - I mean WHO puts pp pads down for a cat? UGH. :ashamed: Poor thing - he never had a chance from the word go. Oh and Flutter IS right about the smell - She will HAVE to get the smell OUT of EVERYTHING....no matter HOW much training he has - if he gets out and smells his own scent? BAM....They are wild after all - and territorial. Just so unfair for him. [/QUOTE]
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Cat who won't use litter box...help???
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